I have been looking for a suitable replacement for the buttons on the 246. Reed has several sequencers that need to have them replaced and the original part is long gone. In a perfect world they would be available in blue and red and have LEDs inside them, instead of incandescent light bulbs that will burn out again. I found a solution, but it was back ordered for 6 weeks. The part showed up, I can't wait to try them out!
December 16, 2008
Reed, your friends have arrived
I have been looking for a suitable replacement for the buttons on the 246. Reed has several sequencers that need to have them replaced and the original part is long gone. In a perfect world they would be available in blue and red and have LEDs inside them, instead of incandescent light bulbs that will burn out again. I found a solution, but it was back ordered for 6 weeks. The part showed up, I can't wait to try them out!
December 10, 2008
What's this?
I have done a lot of PCB design and part ordering lately and I am waiting for packages to come every day.
I got some PCBs in the mail today. They're a crazy color, almost white. I stuffed all the parts I had around into the prototype boards. Now I have to wait for the pots and last few other parts to get here. This is going to be a lot of work, but I'm looking forward to it.
Labels:
DIY modules
Where Buchla Keyboards Go to Die And Be Reborn
I have had these 3 keyboards since I was sick. When I got them the farthest away worked fine and the closest just needed to be tuned up and the middle one didn't work at all. I went through various stages including one point where all three stopped working! @#$%$U&^*
Anyway, they are all ready to go home now. For a minute there, I thought I might actually be the charlatan I'm afraid of being...
Quickly of interest there are two 221s and one 219.
The 219 is serial number 5, evidently the last one ever made. It's actually a great keyboard, 48 keys laid out like a piano, 8 keys with individual tuning, 2 pairs of awesome benders and 3 kays with pressure and trigger outs. It's 4 voice polyphonic! I don't know if one could get analog oscillators to track close enough to actually play chords, but maybe with 259Es. The Joysticks light up. They're made from a plexiglass stick glued to a Davies Molding knob that uses a tiny incandescent light bulb as the ball in a "ball and socket joint." Four photo resistors get exposed the light from that bulb to change the resistance and give CV output. Wild.
The 221s are exceptional in that they are the only Buchla touchplate keyboards that DO NOT have trim pots on all the keys. Its a slick design, sadly it uses a few rare parts, so it's not really clone fodder. I don't know that I like the idea of having all those buttons that are useless, since they were intended to control a 300 computer. The joystick is normal on this one, but these two have different length sticks. If you leave space on the sides put a light in the boat, you can move the whole keyboard left and right to get additional bending. That Buchla thought of everything....
I'll put up some pictures of the guts in the next couple days. What a load off. Now I can clear up some space for the next wave...
Labels:
219,
221,
kayboards,
touchplates
My 207 #2
Through a series of trades, I ended up with a front panel from a 207 module. I had to clone the PCB in order to make it into a finished module. The module is mostly finished now, it simply awaits the microphone transformer. I have one lined up, I'm just waiting to get my filthy hands on it. Anyway, someone asked how the PCB I made looks, so here it is blank.


Here it is with some parts stuffed. Notice I went with film caps in the audio path instead of the 1uF electrolytics. I just felt like it was a good idea. I don't know if I'm making the world a batter place, but I'm trying, one capacitor at a time.

I did that messy kludge just like the original ones have too, but I didn't take a picture. it's in the cabinet now, so that will have to be shown off some other time. I don't know how much crosstalk would have been added by placing the resistors on the PCB, but I figured it wasn't worth tempting fate.
Here it is with some parts stuffed. Notice I went with film caps in the audio path instead of the 1uF electrolytics. I just felt like it was a good idea. I don't know if I'm making the world a batter place, but I'm trying, one capacitor at a time.
I did that messy kludge just like the original ones have too, but I didn't take a picture. it's in the cabinet now, so that will have to be shown off some other time. I don't know how much crosstalk would have been added by placing the resistors on the PCB, but I figured it wasn't worth tempting fate.
Labels:
207,
clone,
garage sale,
kit
November 29, 2008
Ruff Club

This is just a rough mock up of what I have been thinking about for a single space mixer. It's 6 channels, each with voltage controlled and manual level and panning. There is a stereo, unity gain expansion input and a mono output. A mute switch on each channel. The 3 channels to the left pan right with higher voltage and the 3 channels to the right do the reverse. Panning is equal powered, so there is no dead zone in the middle. I think it fits the bill.
November 26, 2008
Mixers Mixers Mixers

With the release of the Buchla 206e, there's been some chatter about mixers. Evidently some people wanted to have the patch storage, but not the MIDI control for their 200e. But people more like me said they would like a 1 space all analog mixer for their system. This got me thinking, "what have the mixers been so far?"
206 "elegant" 2 x 3 channel mixers that are also summed to operate as a mono 6 channel one. It has mute and monitor switches on all channels.
205 2 x 5 in 4 out matrix mixers that also sum to make a simple 10 in 4 out one. Monitor switches on each input channel. Not exactly small at 3 panel spaces.
207 jam packed 6 input stereo mixer with manual pan on 4 channels and CV pan on 2. Pre amp. Monitor and mute switches on all channels. Monitor output on the front.
The 226 and 227 are quad interfaces that for the purpose of this discussion are irrelevant.
I think it would be nice to have a 6 channel, stereo mixer with CV controlled level and pan on each channel. I love sliders too. I don't know if anyone besides Grant uses the monitor system, so that might be eliminated.
The 207 uses a pair of Vactrols to do the panning, but because of the way the equal power curve is implimented, I don't think I could just send the level CV into the bottom of the differential pair. I could put basically a lopass gate in gate mode on each channel before the panner. The parts count could add up REALLY fast. That's 18 Vactrols! That's a lot of board space.
I'm thinking about solutions that are more elegant, like how the Serge Universal Audio Processor works. It's just 2 VCAs per channel that are controlled for the gain and panning. It would be nice to get a fast moving VCA in the equation, for the times when you want a snappy percussion sound. Three SSM2164s could do it.
I'm studying up on equal power voltage controlled panning circuits now.
November 21, 2008
getting my modules together
After a month of downtime, I am back in the saddle. I got tonsillitis and had to go to the hospital, then my grandmother died. It's been a bummer, but I've done a little bit of work on a couple modules that I'm ready to show. These pictures are just the panel designs on paper with knobs laying on top, but they give a suggestion of what the finished modules will look like.

The first is a clone of an oldie. I don't care too much for the idea of cloning old modules (I'd rather do something new), but people keep asking me about 258 oscillators. It makes sense that some 200e users would crave the raw analog sound of the classic 200 sound source. There are a couple things that make this a funny one to re-do in modern times.
The first is that it used a µA726 matched transistor pair. That transistor is heated to maintain a constant operating temperature, so the scale doesn't drift as it heats up. This part is long obsolete. Although I could buy NOS ones on ebay, I have decided that this is not the best idea. Since the 259 uses a regular matched pair and a tempco resistor and the 208 switched from a µA726 to a regular matched pair and tempco in one of it's design revisions, I figured it would be ok to do this one with an LM394 and a tempco resistor. I also have redone the PCB so that all the panel controls mount on it. It makes the module much cleaner looking and less prone to failures. If the pots fail 20 years from now and nobody is making the same ones I have used, one could always panel mount some and wire to the PCB like the original design. It could be built up using the original knobs, blue knobs (if I can get the big blue ones!) or the ones Don is using now on the 200e modules.
The second thing is that the 258 has no keyboard input. Don decided to put a fine tune on the left-most CV in instead. I have never cared much for this and have entertained several other options. The first idea was to put a push/pull pot in the left-most position and when it is pulled engage a trimmed CV in rather than the scalable one that is normally there. Grant Richter told me he had done this on an actual Buchla 258. The problem I have with that is the depth of those pots would require really long stand-offs and panel mounted pots. The second idea I had was to put a gray banana jack in the hole where Don put the fine tune control on the left. This would work, but I don't know that I like having a banana jack in the area where the knobs are, call me weird. The final idea I had was to put a toggle switch where the fine tune was. If it's up, the input is trimmed 1.2volts/octave or whatever and if it's down, the CV goes through the control. I have set up my PCB so that the original fine tune control, the banana jack or the switch are all possible. I plan to try them all out and decide which suits best.
Although I did a couple 258 clones a few years back using a CA3080 instead of the discrete transistors in the core, I found the triangle symmetry to be imperfect and the whole exponential converter had to be changed to use a PNP pair, hence this module will be true to the original design using discrete transistors.
The second module I have ready to order parts for is the Quad Voltage Processor I wrote about last month. I thought I could get all the parts between the controls on a single PCB, using SMT, but I found that it was more parts than I anticipated. It is a motherboard with all the panel controls and a second board with the actual circuit. Since this is essentially 2 whole 257 modules, each with an extra CV input, I think that is respectable enough. I'm really looking forward to getting this one built up. This will be a boon to small 200 systems, where it will solve many control voltage situations.
Anybody interested?
The first is a clone of an oldie. I don't care too much for the idea of cloning old modules (I'd rather do something new), but people keep asking me about 258 oscillators. It makes sense that some 200e users would crave the raw analog sound of the classic 200 sound source. There are a couple things that make this a funny one to re-do in modern times.
The first is that it used a µA726 matched transistor pair. That transistor is heated to maintain a constant operating temperature, so the scale doesn't drift as it heats up. This part is long obsolete. Although I could buy NOS ones on ebay, I have decided that this is not the best idea. Since the 259 uses a regular matched pair and a tempco resistor and the 208 switched from a µA726 to a regular matched pair and tempco in one of it's design revisions, I figured it would be ok to do this one with an LM394 and a tempco resistor. I also have redone the PCB so that all the panel controls mount on it. It makes the module much cleaner looking and less prone to failures. If the pots fail 20 years from now and nobody is making the same ones I have used, one could always panel mount some and wire to the PCB like the original design. It could be built up using the original knobs, blue knobs (if I can get the big blue ones!) or the ones Don is using now on the 200e modules.
The second thing is that the 258 has no keyboard input. Don decided to put a fine tune on the left-most CV in instead. I have never cared much for this and have entertained several other options. The first idea was to put a push/pull pot in the left-most position and when it is pulled engage a trimmed CV in rather than the scalable one that is normally there. Grant Richter told me he had done this on an actual Buchla 258. The problem I have with that is the depth of those pots would require really long stand-offs and panel mounted pots. The second idea I had was to put a gray banana jack in the hole where Don put the fine tune control on the left. This would work, but I don't know that I like having a banana jack in the area where the knobs are, call me weird. The final idea I had was to put a toggle switch where the fine tune was. If it's up, the input is trimmed 1.2volts/octave or whatever and if it's down, the CV goes through the control. I have set up my PCB so that the original fine tune control, the banana jack or the switch are all possible. I plan to try them all out and decide which suits best.
Although I did a couple 258 clones a few years back using a CA3080 instead of the discrete transistors in the core, I found the triangle symmetry to be imperfect and the whole exponential converter had to be changed to use a PNP pair, hence this module will be true to the original design using discrete transistors.
Anybody interested?
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